Cumberland Island is one of the places that I will never grow tired of visiting. The Cumberland Island National Seashore is the largest of Georgia’s Golden Isles. The island features sugary white sand beaches, marshland, and stunning forests. It is world-known for its population of wild horses that inhabit the island.
The island is known for being the home to important families including James Oglethorpe, the Carnegie family, Revolutionary War hero Nathanael Greene, and for being the site of JFK Jr’s wedding.
Getting to Cumberland Island
Cumberland Island is only accessible by boat. There is a ferry that leaves from St. Marys, Georgia. The Cumberland Queen Ferry runs three times a day from March to September and twice a day from October through November. During the months of January and February, the ferry runs twice a day but only leaves Mondays through Thursdays.
The National Park Service limits the number of visitors to 300 per day. Campers may remain on the island for up to one week.
Getting Around Cumberland Island
Plan on doing a lot of walking while visiting the island! There are no paved roads or trails on the island and the use of vehicles on the island is limited to private residents, contractors, and National Park employees.
One way many visitors choose to get around Cumberland Island is by bicycle. Bikes are allowed on the ferry for a $10 fee, but space is limited. You can also rent bikes on the island for $16/day. Bikes are only permitted on certain parts of the islands (you’ll see signs). Several spots on the island are hard difficult to navigate by bike because of the thick sand.
On our most recent visit, we hiked just over 7 miles and we stuck to just the southern tip of the island!
What is there to See on the Island?
The Ice House Museum was once one of the original Carnegie service buildings. Today the small museum houses original artifacts (and replicas) from the island’s prehistoric, colonial, early-American, and Gilded Era history.
The crown jewel of Cumberland Island are the Dungeness ruins. James Oglethorpe (founder of the colony of Georgia) first built a hunting lodge on the island in 1736. He named the lodge Dungeness.
Afterwards, Revolutionary War hero Nathanael Greene acquired 11,000 acres of the island in exchange for a bad debt. He moved to the island with his wife, Catharine Littlefield Greene. After his death, she built a four-story tabby mansion over a Timucuan shell mound. During the War of 1812 the British, who occupied the island, used the house as a headquarters.
In 1818, Major General Henry “Light-Horse Harry” Lee, a Revolutionary War hero and father of Robert E. Lee, came to the island and stayed in the Greene house until his death later that year. He was buried in the Greene-Miller cemetery. The home was abandoned during the Civil War and later burned to the ground.
In the 1880s, the property switched hands again when it was purchased by Thomas M. Carnegie, brother of philanthropist Andrew Carnegie. He built a 59-room Queen Anne style mansion and grounds which he also called Dungeness. After his death, in 1886, his wife Lucy continued to live in the mansion and built other estates on the island for her children including Greyfield, Plum Orchard, and the Stafford Plantation. The Carnegies owned 90% of the island. The family moved out of Dungeness in 1925 and the home was burned down in 1959.
The historic district comprises of the main house, servants quarters, utility buildings, laundries, cisterns, and other structures like the Nathanael Greene home.
The beach on Cumberland Island is absolutely stunning! There is sixteen miles of white sand that wild horses roam alongside sea turtles and horseshoe crabs.
While most day-visitors tend to stick to the south end of the island, there are other sites on the island. These include Greyfield (now the Greyfield Inn), and Plum Orchard.
The 5-6 hour long “The Lands and Legacies Tour” will take you to the north end of the island and visit sites such as Plum Orchard and The Settlement where John F. Kennedy Jr got married in the First African Baptist Church.
Things to Know Before Visiting...
There are no stores and very few amenities on the island. You’ll need to pack in and pack out everything that you’ll need for a day trip. Pack in and pack out means that you’ll need to take it with you when you arrive, and take it with you when you leave. Even garbage cans are hard to come by on the island!
Make sure to pack plenty of water (more than you think you’ll need- especially during the hot months!), and lots of food and snacks. You’ll be surprised at how hungry you’ll get doing all of that hiking or biking!
To answer your question; yes, there are bathrooms on the island! There are 4 bathrooms available on the south tip of the island. You will find one at the Sea Camp Dock, one in the Historic District, one near Sea Camp Campground, and one by the Greene-Miller cemetery.
The Horses of Cumberland Island
Perhaps even more famous than some of the humans that have inhabited the island are the wild horses that now call this paradise home. Horses have lived on Cumberland Island since the 1500s. They were left behind when the homes and plantations on the island were abandoned.
Cumberland has the only herd of feral horses on the Atlantic coast that is not managed- no food, water, veterinary care, or population control.
Staying Overnight
Camping
Reservations for camping can be made up to six months in advance with a limit of staying up to 7 consecutive nights. Sea Camp is the most developed campground on the island. It is located half mile from Sea Camp Dock. There are four additional campgrounds on the island. A permit is required to camp.
Upscale Lodging
Thomas and Lucy Carnegie built Greyfield for their daughter, Margaret. The home was converted to an in in 1962 by her daughter Lucy R. Ferguson. The Greyfield Inn is the epitome of sophisticated, Southern charm.
What Should I Take With Me?
When you’re hiking, please remember to leave no trace! This means to pack out everything that you pack in and if you see trash, pick it up.
Backpack– to store all of your belongings
Dry Bag– to keep your electronics and wallet safe, in case of rain (or kayaking)
Trail GPS– the Garmin Oregon handled GPS works offline. You can view maps, waypoints, tracks, and trails even if you don’t have a signal.
First-Aid Kit– this ultralight, watertight medical kit is a must if you’re hitting the trails!
Sunscreen- yes, you can get sunburned in the forest.
Insect Repellant
Water Bottle– Always pack more water than you think you’ll need!
Snacks
Hammock– I honestly pack a hammock on most hiking trips. Psh, I even bring them along with me when we go on cruises. There are plenty of spots in the forest to put up a hammock and chill out for a bit.
If you’re traveling with your pup, like we often do, be sure to bring along their leash, poop bags, a water dish (this one is collapsible), extra water, food, and snacks.
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